SoDough is in SoDo and specializes in square Detroit-style pizza.

Tartini, the “Pizza & Spaghetteria” in the unofficially designated SoSoDo district, near Belle Isle on South Orange Avenue, has gone through several changes in its nine years, including ownership and, at one point in 2016, a closing.

But today, Tartini is back and serving some of the best Italian food around, and not just in this culinarily starved part of town but in all of Orlando.

This Terramia recently moved around the corner to this new address. Although the word pizza does not appear in this restaurant’s name, pizza was the best of what I sampled here. I ordered the quattro formaggi, which featured a perfectly honed crust topped with just the right amount of cheesy goodness. This is not for the people who expect a red sauce to be part of a pizza pie’s base, nor for the lactose intolerant, but I liked it just fine.

Formerly Caffe Positano, this charming neighborhood restaurant changed its name after it was featured in an episode of Food Network’s “Restaurant: Impossible.” It’s basic Italian/American fare, but it’s all done well. Pizza slices are New York perfect. Most dishes are pasta centric, but they’re all good.

Patina Restaurant Group, which runs this restaurant as well as Tutto Italia next door, imports the water it uses to mix with its imported flour to make the pizza dough. The flour is from Italy; the water is from Pennsylvania. But, the chef told me, the minerality most closely resembles that of the water in Naples, so they figure it’s worth it. I think the pizzas are better simply for the super-hot ovens (also from Italy) which give the pies a quick crisping. Besides pizza, the fritto misto is worth trying.

Winner of the 2019 Best Pizza Foodster Award for Independent Restaurants.

I’ll have to admit that my expectations weren’t exactly high when I was invited to the Wine Barn in Winter Park to sample its line of pizzas. I mean, come on: It’s called the Wine Barn, for crying out loud, and its main purpose is to sell wines in a somewhat warehousey sort of setting. The food has to be just a sideline, a distraction, a hobby. We’re probably talking prefab Boboli-type dough with some slathered sauce and canned toppings, right?

No, not right. The pizzas here are excellent, some of the best I’ve had in Central Florida. And my reaction is not because of lowered expectations or, as a way of giving full disclosure, a placation to a business that advertises on SJO. These are some darned fine pies.

They’re rustic pizzas that immediately brought to mind the sort that are served at Prato. There are two keys to their success. First is the flour, which is Caputo brand, imported from Naples (not the one in Florida) and is a 00, the finest grind (ratings are 1, 0 and 00). The pizza dough is made from scratch and allowed to rest for 24 hours before it is hand-stretched when the pizza is ordered.

The website admits that the dining experience is meant to be Spago-like, though they chose not to name it such, even though there are now five Spagos worldwide. But the food is classic Puck, with touches of his native Austria and of course the designer pizzas that made him famous.

Small pizza joint next to Thirsty Topher. Or your pizza and wait for it at the bar.