I’ll have to admit that my expectations weren’t exactly high when I was invited to the Wine Barn in Winter Park to sample its line of pizzas. I mean, come on: It’s called the Wine Barn, for crying out loud, and its main purpose is to sell wines in a somewhat warehousey sort of setting. The food has to be just a sideline, a distraction, a hobby. We’re probably talking prefab Boboli-type dough with some slathered sauce and canned toppings, right?

No, not right. The pizzas here are excellent, some of the best I’ve had in Central Florida. And my reaction is not because of lowered expectations or, as a way of giving full disclosure, a placation to a business that advertises on SJO. These are some darned fine pies.

They’re rustic pizzas that immediately brought to mind the sort that are served at Prato. There are two keys to their success. First is the flour, which is Caputo brand, imported from Naples (not the one in Florida) and is a 00, the finest grind (ratings are 1, 0 and 00). The pizza dough is made from scratch and allowed to rest for 24 hours before it is hand-stretched when the pizza is ordered.