Hanamizuki

Written By Administrator On September 17, 2008

Hanamizuki is true Japanese in the heart of Orlando’s Tourist World

Hanamizuki How Japanese is Hanamizuki? If you go to the International Drive restaurant’s Web site, it pops up first in Japanese — you have to opt-in to an English version.
Of course, that alone doesn’t vouch for the authenticity of the food. But in a town that considers “steakhouses” that proffer overpriced food that has been been banged and whacked on a hot metal grill the diners sit around to be the epitome of Japanese food, Hanamizuki gives a deeper insight into the intricacies and nuances of a cuisine that involves much more than the chef being able to flip a shrimp tail into his hat.

Hanamizuki’s menu features Kyoto style cooking, which tends to be more elegant and formal than many of the dishes served in most American Japanese restaurants. It also focuses more on fresh vegetables and seafood other than sushi, although that is also a part of it and is available at Hanamizuki.

But good sushi can be found at other restaurants around town. Come to Hanamizuki for something different.

Try the octopus and scallions in nuta, a sauce made with white soybean paste, hot mustard and vinegar. Or grilled salted tile fish.

Kyoto style food is a good choice for vegetarians, as Kyoto is known for its fresh tofu.

The I-drive location will be a turn-off for a lot of locals who don’t want to brave the tourist traffic. Here’s a tip: Instead of entering the strip mall Hanamizuki is located in via International Drive, go around to Universal Boulevard and go in the back way; leave that way, too.

But do give it a try. You’ll find that it’s possible to enjoy delicious Japanese food without having to sit around a hot griddle with a bunch of strangers.

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Taverna Opa

Written By Administrator On September 16, 2008

Taverna Opa is Greek gone wild

Frankly, I can Taverna Opa do without all the table-top dancing and the practice of constantly throwing fistfuls of paper napkins into the air that rain down on diners in something like a snowstorm with immense snowflakes. And I’ve never thought restaurants were the proper place for belly dancers; too much undulating isn’t good for digestion.

And don’t get me started on the ear-splitting music that accompanies the undulating, throwing and dancing.

But at the base of it all is the good Greek food that makes a dinner at Taverna Opa worth putting up with everything else.

The menu has most of the regulars that diners expect to find on Greek menus, at least in America. So you’ll find your mousakas, your pastitsios and dolmades.

But you’ll also find things like the lamb rib appetizer ($9), which were like any other ribs you might find in a barbecue joint but with a lemon sauce to offset the gamey flavor.

Country-style sausage ($5) — Greece being the country in question — served with red and green grilled peppers were another favorite. So was the taramosalata ($4), a creamy dip of salty fish roe.

Thallasino ($36), a sort of Greek version of the Portuguese cioppino, had a large skillet filled with lobster tail, shrimp, scallops, mussels, squid, crab legs and a grouper fillet in a broth of white wine flavored with lemon and garlic and tinged with tomatoes.

And the more pedestrian mousaka ($12) was a big brick of eggplant, potatoes and beef layers topped with a thick bechamel.
For dessert, be sure to try the house-made yogurt ($5), which had the texture of meringue but a tangy taste tempered by honey. There’s baklava ($5) for the traditionalists.

Taverna Opa is in the Pointe Orlando, so the clientele tends to be comprised mostly of out-of-towners. But if you’re going to get up on top of a table and dance with a stange woman wearing veils it’s probably best that no one knows who you are.

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Tap Room at Dubsdread

Written By Administrator On September 16, 2008

Let the burger wars begin: Tap Room at Dubsdread takes an early lead

I visited the Tap Room at Dubsdread for lunch recently. I was meeting a friend who used to be the publisher of a major daily newspaper. We’re thinking about starting a support group.

If you’re the owner of a restaurant that has had a rough summer, you probably don’t want to hear this next part: the place was packed and people were waiting for tables. I guess good food and service will always win out.

And it’s not like the food is the cheapest around. My Tap Room classic cheeseburger was a hefty $9.95 — not a lot but not exactly a bargain, either. Still, it was a darned fine burger. It featured a half-pound of beef topped with good Tillamook cheddar cheese, not the processed American cheese some places are using. Some lettuce, a thick slice of tomato and purple onions were included. And the bun was toasted and had a terrific buttery flavor. It was cooked to the requested medium-rare (or pretty close) and came with so-so fries.

The Tap Room retains its rustic golf clubhouse aura, but on the day I visited it had a distinct aroma — some mustic to go with the rustic. But none of that seemed to bother the throng. And I forgot it as soon as I started plowing into the burger.
So Tap Room is the burger to beat, as far as I’m concerned. Anyone else have a better favorite?

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Luma On Park

Written By Administrator On September 15, 2008

Luma On Park is Winter Park at its snazziest

Luma On Park had a rocky start. It came to town with a sort of arrogance that suggested that as long as they had a tony atmosphere it really didn’t matter if the food was any good. After all, what did the Central Florida rubes know about good food?

We knew plenty, and we weren’t falling for the smoke and mirrors attitude of this restaurant group out of Atlanta.
The message was received. The original chef returned to Georgia, or elsewhere, and in his place we got Brandon McGlamery, a talented chef with credentials that reach from the French Laundry in California to Guy Savoy in Paris who didn’t just let his resume speak for itself.

Luma’s menu is divided between small plates and full entrees. While this is one of the pricier restaurants on the Avenue, one could make a meal of small plates and leave without a significant dent in the wallet.

Try the calamari fries ($9) or the crispy duck salad ($11), which went beyond a mere salad with the inclusion of a duck leg confit.
If you want to go for a full entree, try the Kobe flank steak ($26) or the black grouper ($27).

Service is exceptional and the decor is Miami spicy. But, thankfully, the attitude is strictly Central Florida friendly.

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Jiko – The Cooking Place

Written By Administrator On September 15, 2008

Jiko — The Cooking Place at Disney’s Animal Kingdom Lodge finds its voice

JikoWhen Disney’s Animal Kingdom Lodge first opened nearly eight years ago, its signature restaurant, Jiko, left a bland impression. The name is Swahili for The Cooking Place, and the menu was supposed to focus on South African cuisine. But what was offered was a cuisine without a country. Soon after, Anette Grecchi-Gray, one of Disney’s pioneering women chefs, took over and started making improvement. Now, Grecchi-Gray has left the company and left the restaurant in the hands of chef Brian Piasecki, who admitted when he took over Jiko that he had never been to Africa and knew little about the cuisine. Whatever he did to educate himself seems to have worked. Jiko now serves food that is creative and well-executed, a fusion of styles and techniques that utilize the seasonings and spices associated with African cuisine.

I liked the berbere-braised lamb shank ($27), a sizeable hunk of meat, slow-cooked so the meat was fall-off-the-bone tender. The berbere is a spice mixture of chilies, ginger, coriander and other flavors associated with Ethiopian cuisine. The rub gave a spicy note to the mild lamb. Arctic char ($31) was another favorite, a fatty-fleshed fish with characteristics of both trout and salmon (in flavor — not in appearances; that would be an odd fish indeed). The fish was mild flavored and spiced up with fennel pollen salt. It was accompanied by mealie pap, a South African staple of cornmeal mush. Some good appetizer choices are kalamata olive flatbread ($9), or ostrich schnitzel ($13) — try ordering that one five times real fast.

Service was of the type that Disney is well-known for. And be sure to give the wine list a good look-see. It’s the largest collection of South Africa wines in North America. Ask for a taste of the Delheim Gewurztraminer, which goes perfectly with the Portland Pier scallops ($31) and its accompanying spicy eggplant kottu.
The restaurant was designed by Jeffery Beers and is a salute to the opening scenes of The Lion King. The columns are supposed to represent the decorative neck-stretching rings worn by Swahili women, and the light fixtures are floating sculptures of birds that get smaller as they disappear in the distance.
Of course, you do have to put up with the occasionally under-dressed tourist, but Jiko has become one of Disney’s better dining choices.

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