Le Bernardin
Compare Le Coucou to Le Bernardin. Eric Ripert’s Midtown restaurant is still exquisite, but it’s more of the old-school posh than new-money upscale.

But that’s mainly in terms of the atmosphere. You could put the plates of either restaurant on a table at the other’s and it would fit right in. (Well, maybe not the rabbit since Le Bernardin is mainly seafood.)

Here have the Hamachi with a yuzu vinaigrette, and the Halibut. Or just about anything. Ripert is a master and dinner here is always wonderful.

Still…I’ve had the pleasure — and make no mistake, it’s a pleasure — of dining at Le Bernardin on three occasions. But if someone were to ask me to choose between it and Le Coucou I’d choose the latter in a heartbeat.

Le Bernardin is at 155 W. 51st St., New York.