International Drive

A Land Remembered

Address
City
Phone
Price

Rosen Shingle Creek
Orlando
407-996-3663
$$$$

An odd name – it comes from a book about Florida by Patrick Smith. But it’s a good restaurant, though not the best steakhouse. If you’re a prime rib lover, this is your place, but be prepared to pay dearly. The restaurant has been known to close on evenings when the hotel’s capacity is low, so always call first.
Though it is situated in the Rosen Shingle Creek hotel’s golf clubhouse, the atmosphere is more along the lines of a hunting lodge. Very clubby. Service has always been first-rate.
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Bahama Breeze, International Drive

Address
City
Phone
Price

8849 International Drive
Orlando
407-248-2499
$$$

It will be interesting to see if Darden keeps backing this Islands concept, which for some reason has never quite caught on with the dining public. For the most part, the food is good  and the restaurants are attractive and lively, often with entertainment. And they’re a favorite outdoor dining destination for locals.

As for the food, my companion out-ordered me with tortilla soup and a ropa Joe sandwich. The soup had layer upon layer of textures and tastes, with pliant avocado cubes, chicken and strips of tortillas.

The sandwich was, as the name might suggest, a version of the classic ropa vieja specialty of shredded beef served on a Cuban roll. Lots of well-seasoned meat, some cheese, peppers and onions livened it up.

For my starter course, I chose a special of ahi tuna ceviche, which featured tiny cubes of tuna dressed with citrus juices served atop a platform supported by watercress. The watercress was more annoying than helpful. It was wadded onto the plate in long stems, and every time I tried to fork a little watercress with some tuna, a long vine would trail behind.

For my entree, I had another special of triple tail, which sounds a lot more exotic than it is. Triple tail is a mild white fish, emphasis on the mild. In fact, it had no discernable flavor, although it was unquestionably fresh. But it was served on top of a bed of mashed sweet potatoes that were overly sweet. My rule of thumb is that the side dish should never have more flavor than the main dish.

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Banrai Sushi

Address
City
Phone
Price

Rosen Shingle Creek
Orlando
407-996-3663
$$

This is the latest in the ongoing trend of sushi bars in hotel lobbies. But this isn’t just a slap-dash sort of place. The sushi here is unfailingly fresh and creative.

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Banshoo Sushi Bar

Address
City
Phone
Price

Rosen Centre Hotel
Orlando
407-996-9840
$$

Banshoo is the latest in a mini trend of hotel lobby bars. Here, chef Yoshi prepares skillfully crafted rolls and nigirizushi for hotel guests and locals looking for fresh sushi. Banshoo means sunset, so naturally it is open only in the evenings.

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Bice

Address
City
Phone
Price

Portofino Bay
Orlando
407-503-1415
$$$$

Dinner at Bice is not an inexpensive night out. But when you consider cost vs. quality, you’ll find that Bice is not overpriced.Just consider the restaurant’s signature dish, ravioli stuffed with beef short ribs and spinach. The pasta was delicately thin and tender, and the braised meat inside had a rich, fatty mouthfeel that blossomed with the sauce of mushrooms and Marsala wine. Absolute heaven.Or another from the list of primi piatti, big, fat tortellini filled with spinach and ricotta and dressed with a sauce of butter and sage.From the secondi my companion had the scalloppine di vitello, flattened medallions of veal sauteed with a darkly rich mushroom sauce and served with a timbale of potatoes similar to a potatoes Anna dish.I chose a special of the evening that featured sea bass in parchment. Enclosed inside the envelope with zucchini, yellow squash, red and green peppers, and a few salty olives, the fish took on all the vegetable flavors while maintaining a fresh and moist texture. The taste was buttery and absolutely delicious.
Desserts are worth lingering over.

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Brick House Tavern + Tap

Address
City
Phone
Price

8440 International Drive
Orlando
407-355-0321
$$

Brick House fancies itself as a “man cave.” Take that as you will. I wish they’d spend less time thinking about the man cave concept and a little more about the food, which is marginal. Brick House is a fledgling chain out of Houston.

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Café Tu Tu Tango

Address
City
Phone
Price

8625 International Drive
Orlando
407-248-2222
$$

Cafe Tu Tu Tango is at its best as a celebration destination. You’ll have more fun – and the food just might taste better – if you go with a big group. Order a table full of tapas and share. Be careful: The cost can really add up fast.The Cajun chicken egg rolls ($6.25) were a favorite, with blackened chicken rolled inside a wonton skin with corn and cheese. Red onions and a touch of cilantro added just the right flavor notes.The duck and mixed greens salad ($7.25) was one I had enjoyed six years ago, and it was still good on my recent visit. It featured shredded duck meat served on flatbread atop mesclun greens drizzled with balsamic vinegar.Tu Tu’s setting is a Spanish artist’s garret, Spanish, I suppose, because for the Mediterranean slant of the menu. Every inch of wall space is occupied by paintings, drawings, sculptures and oddities, all of which are for sale. Should you purchase one, another will be slapped up in its place in no time flat because there are artists in residence dappling, scribbling and shaping new works of art right before your very eyes. According to literature distributed by the restaurant, it isn’t uncommon for a guest to sit down and see an artist staring at a blank canvas. But by the time dessert is finished the artist is signing his or her name to a finished piece. Some of the art looks as though it was completed that fast, but having the artists working there among the diners is part of the fun.

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Cala Bella

Address
City
Phone
Price

Rosen Shingle Creek Resort
Orlando
407-996-9939
$$$$

The food here is deliciously good, and the atmosphere is grandiloquent. But the prices are a bit steep, apparently geared toward the expense-accounted business traveler.
Seafood pescatore features a saffron seasoned fish stock tinged with tomato, with an abundance of seafood, including an Australian lobster tail, two impressively plump scallops, shrimp, clams and mussels. Under it all was a nest of fresh pappardelle pasta.
The al dente ribbons were part of my companion’s entrée of pappardelle ai bistecche, which was listed under the menu’s pasta heading, though in truth this was a steak dish. It featured 10 ounces of New York strip from Harris Ranch, cooked to a perfect medium-rare and sliced, the noodles piled on top with a sauce of mushrooms and tomato ragout. Quite nice.
We had started our meal with the mozzarella stuffed Bella meatballs, three bocce ball-sized orbs of moist ground meat braised in Barolo wine. The meatballs were more enjoyable than the calamari fritte, which was a little too damp.
Service was exceptional.

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Capital Grille

Address
City
Phone
Price

Pointe Orlando
Orlando
407-370-4392
$$$$

One of Darden Restaurants’ most recent acquisitions, and easily their most upscale. The steaks here are very good, and the service is attentive if not downright solicitous. I had the Delmonico, basically a bone-in ribeye, that was had a flavorful, well-seasoned crust and beautiful red center. The higher fat content of the cut made it juicy and tender. My companion chose the Kansas City sirloin, offered as a special on the night I visited. Also a bone-in cut, the steak had a characteristically coarser texture but was cooked just as perfectly as the other and was every bit as flavorful.
Atmosphere is clubby and posh.

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Charley’s Steak House

Address
City
Phone
Price

8255 International Drive
Orlando
407-363-0228
$

From local restaurant group Talk of the Town, Charley’s is a longtime steakhouse that specializes in fine cuts of meat cooked over hardwood fires. Very popular with the tourists, most locals know that it can be hit or miss. When it’s on the mark, it’s very good. Besides this location, there is a Charley’s on South Orange Blossom Trail in Orlando and another in Kissimmee.

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