College Park and Adriatico are a perfect match. The Orlando neighborhood certainly has some good, or good enough, restaurants. But it’s been missing a quaint trattoria, the sort of Italian place with a mom-and-pop feel, one that’s comfortable, homey and immediately familiar. A welcoming spot where the food is good but beside the point.That’s Adriatico.The “mom and pop” owners are Marco and Rosetta Cudazzo. She runs the dining room, greeting guests with a matronly welcome, and he does the cooking, demonstrating the skills he most recently plied at the estimable Terramia, a multiple Foodie winner, and at Antonio’s La Fiamma in Maitland before that.Have the scallopine alla Sienese or the pollo al limone. The scallops are a perfect appetizer. I could have made a meal of the three huge scallops sauteed with shallots and brandy in a creamy sauce tinged with a touch of mustard, served over fresh spinach. One could want little more when the appetizer is this good.The classico antipasto misto was a thoughtful selection of salami, prosciutto, cubes of hard parmesan, roasted peppers, baby artichokes and a handful of some of the tastiest green olives you’re likely to find.
College Park
Armando’s College Park
Address
City
Phone
Price
2305 Edgewater Drive
Orlando
407-930-0333
$$$
A College Park outpost of the Hannibal Square eatery. The vibe here is a bit more vibrant, at least on nights that have a good crowd, which seems to be most of them.
Castle Irish Pub and Restaurant
Address
City
Phone
Price
2625 Edgewater Drive
Orlando
407-270-8101
$$
The new pub is owned by a family, the Hoynes, from southeast Ireland’s Kilkenny County. Kilkenny Castle is the fortress referenced in the name.
Current Seafood Counter
Address
City
Phone
Price
2425 Edgewater Drive
Orlando
$$
The Current Seafood Counter is a clever name for a fish-focused restaurant, especially this one that opened recently in College Park. It evokes an islands in the stream image of flowing water, and the Counter part let’s you know it’s a quick-serve operation as opposed to a full-service one.
Doghouse
Address
City
Phone
Price
2727 Edgewater Drive
Orlando
407-412-5409
$
Basically an indoor hot dog cart.
Honolulu Harry’s
Address
City
Phone
Price
2305 Edgewater Drive
Orlando
407-493-1973
$$
Honolulu Harry’s wants to be more of a bar than a restaurant, and it shows in the food. Go for a mai tai.
Ollie’s Public House
Address
City
Phone
Price
3400 Edgewater Drive
Orlando
407-999-8934
$$
Let’s be clear: Ollie’s is primarily a bar, albeit one that happens to serve food. I wouldn’t come here specifically to have dinner. But if I were here and enjoying a beer with friends, I might order something to eat. Beef on weck is a good sandwich choice. Ask for the pickle jar.
Outpost Neighborhood Kitchen
Address
City
Phone
Price
2603 Edgewater Drive
Orlando
407-930-6282
$$
PR’s Taco Palace College Park
Address
City
Phone
Price
717 W. Smith St.
Orlando
407-440-2803
$
An outpost of the longtime Winter Park dive, just as dive-y. Tex-Mex snobs will be horrified at some of the selections. Relax. You just need the food to absorb some of the beer.
Ragazzi’s Pizza and Restaurant
Address
City
Phone
Price
3201 Edgewater Drive
Orlando
407-999-9973
$$
Good pizzas have been coming out of the oven at this address for years, but only recently as Ragazzi’s. The crust — so important to a proper pizza — was just thick enough to hold the weight of the toppings, which were considerable. Besides pizza, Ragazzi’s does some pretty delicious Italian specialties, as well. I loved the meatball appetizer, which really could have served as an entree all on its own. Not only were the meat orbs well formed and firm, they also were simmered in a red sauce that was thick and tomatoey and worth spooning on its own. also had the eggplant parmigiana, a nicely done slice of eggplant dipped in egg wash and dusted with flour, fried to a golden crisp and then topped with melted mozzarella. Even better: it included a side dish of pasta with more of that wonderful marinara.