The Current Seafood Counter is a clever name for a fish-focused restaurant, especially this one that opened recently in College Park. It evokes an islands in the stream image of flowing water, and the Counter part let’s you know it’s a quick-serve operation as opposed to a full-service one.

The College Park Current is an offshoot of the original in Sanford, at the Henry’s Depot market. There, it really is pretty much a counter. The new place is a sizable space – it took over the former Jade Sushi & New Asian restaurant – so once your food order has been placed and paid for, you may choose a seat at one of several high-top and conventional-height tables, all with metal stools or chairs that seem designed to discourage lingering.

The menu board is displayed behind the counter, with entries on handwritten strips of paper that imply items may come and go depending on market availability or freshness. Can’t attest to that, but it adds to the allure. There aren’t any details about preparation included on the board, but things are pretty straightforward here and you should be able to deduce what you’re getting just from the name.

Like the New England clam chowder I had on my recent visit one evening and the East Coast fish and chips (though I couldn’t really see much difference between the East Coast version and one from any other part of the country – or world, for that matter.

The chowder was just the way I like it, thick but not floury. There was an ample amount of chewy nubbins of clam meat, along with potatoes and a sprinkling of bacon for a smoky note.

The fish and chips features a nice portion of battered cod, nicely fried and ungreasy, with white flaky flesh under the golden jacket. The seasoned fries were average. The dish came with a too-tiny portion of tartar sauce, not nearly enough for all the fish. And also a laughably small thimble of slaw. Seriously, why bother?

The man who took and delivered my order was convivial. And while I was waiting for my food, sitting on one of those hard metal chairs, someone else brought me a cup of water. Very thoughtful.

As with any seafood restaurant, success depends of freshness. This new place will do fine if it keeps things current.

The Current Seafood Counter is at 2425 Edgewater Drive, Orlando (map). It is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. It does not publish a phone number and its website currently has little information.