Cafe Margaux, a French restaurant in Cocoa, is an odd little place with delicious food. It wants to be an elegant restaurant, but it isn’t, at least not one along the lines of a Victoria & Albert’s or a Venetian Room. Let’s just say its chic on a shoestring. But if the decor is a bit florid, the food is decidedly upscale, not really classic French, but with French tones that enhance a creative style. The best of the entrees was the melange of fresh fish, offered each evening as a sampler of the three fish specials. When I visited, the chef had prepared poached salmon, snapper with a potato crust and blackened dolphin. My guest liked the dolphin best because the blackening seasonings were perfectly balanced with the mild taste of the fish, giving just a bit of cayenne spiciness. I liked the crispiness of the shredded potato crust on the snapper. This is the sister restaurant to Ulysses’ Steakhouse, also wonderful.

One of Darden Restaurants’ most recent acquisitions, and easily their most upscale. The steaks here are very good, and the service is attentive if not downright solicitous. I had the Delmonico, basically a bone-in ribeye, that was had a flavorful, well-seasoned crust and beautiful red center. The higher fat content of the cut made it juicy and tender. My companion chose the Kansas City sirloin, offered as a special on the night I visited. Also a bone-in cut, the steak had a characteristically coarser texture but was cooked just as perfectly as the other and was every bit as flavorful.
Atmosphere is clubby and posh.

But the menu at Millenia is identical to the one that has been so popular at the Pointe. It’s the atmosphere that is different. It’s still sufficiently upscale and appointed with such fineries as crisp white tablecloths and napkins. But whereas the International Drive restaurant has the decidedly masculine feel of a boardroom or exclusive country club the Millenia location is brighter, more modern and less, well, stuffy. Old money versus nouveau riche.

The food is the same high quality as other CapGrilles, and service is just as forward.

From Nashville, Chef & I offers an intimate dining experience within the Hall on the Yard food hall, including a by-request chef’s tasting menu.

Another Lake Nona dining choice from Tavistock. Most items are “small plates” to encourage sharing. The lamb sliders are a standout. Note that service doesn’t begin until 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday.

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House has come into the area in a big way, with an emphasis on the big. The new restaurant on International Drive is huge.

Of course, the main event here is meat — big, expensive hunks of it, nicely broiled and juicy.

Part of the new Delaney, a boutique hotel, Delaney’s Tavern is more than a drinking spot. The food, under the direction of chef Anthony Albino, is innovative and expertly executed. The crab beignets and shrimp, scallops & grits (with purple grits) are favorites.

The name of the restaurant derives not from an age restriction but rather from the number of steps it takes to reach it down a curving staircase from the lobby level. (Yes, I counted; it’s 21 steps. In both directions.)

This gem truly is hidden away, below the entrance to Maria & Enzo’s and behind the Edison (both sister restaurants). It’s a quiet respite that also serves excellent food.

After a shaky start, this casual Italian situated in a newish hotel behind the Orange County Convention Center is finally finding its way, thanks in no small part to Robert Mason, who took over the kitchen. Mason, formerly of the Boheme, has given the menu something it didn’t have before: consistency.
The oven-roasted grouper was a thick fillet served on top of thick, round noodles. It had a delightful crisp crust and was topped with a stack of rich crab meat.Filetto con Gorgonzola, a certified black angus tenderloin of beef, was grilled to a perfect medium-rare and finished with tangy blue cheese, accompanied by baked tomato, cipollini onions, asparagus and fingerling potatoes.
The setting is OK, but you never get over the feeling that you’re sitting in a hotel, because you are. One irritating thing: there is no self parking, you must use the valet service, which is free (if you don’t count the tip).