After a shaky start, this casual Italian situated in a newish hotel behind the Orange County Convention Center is finally finding its way, thanks in no small part to Robert Mason, who took over the kitchen. Mason, formerly of the Boheme, has given the menu something it didn’t have before: consistency.
The oven-roasted grouper was a thick fillet served on top of thick, round noodles. It had a delightful crisp crust and was topped with a stack of rich crab meat.Filetto con Gorgonzola, a certified black angus tenderloin of beef, was grilled to a perfect medium-rare and finished with tangy blue cheese, accompanied by baked tomato, cipollini onions, asparagus and fingerling potatoes.
The setting is OK, but you never get over the feeling that you’re sitting in a hotel, because you are. One irritating thing: there is no self parking, you must use the valet service, which is free (if you don’t count the tip).

Fiorenzo, the Hyatt Regency Orlando restaurant formerly known as Fiorenzo Italian Steakhouse, has emerged from its monthslong renovation. Even though it shortened its name, it is still Italian and you can still get a good steak. With the reopening of the restaurant, Jared Gross, who made the hotel’s Urban Tide seafood restaurant a destination for locals, has taken the role of chef de cuisine at Fiorenzo. There wasn’t a thing wrong with the food here before, but with Gross’s direction I expect it to soar.

If you know Il Mulino New York, you’re going to be surprised by Il Mulino New York Trattoria. You’ll also be disappointed. But if you’ve never been to the original — and if you ever get the chance you really should go — you’ll find the food here pleasant enough.The dentice and veal saltimbocca are good. So is the pasta fagioli.

Although the name means the fisherman, it was never meant to be a seafood restaurant, and in fact seafood was never its forte. The name was merely an homage to the original owner’s childhood on the waters of his native Sicily.

Napa Valley chef Donna Scala oversees this Italian restaurant in the new Hilton next to the Waldorf Astoria. The decor is white with splashes of color in the art work (some of which is done in chalk and changes from time to time). The menu features pizzas from a brick oven, pastas and secondi — the lamb shank is a standout. Scala is often on hand to oversee her restaurant, and she proves to be a gracious host.

Maggiano’s Little Italy is the sort of place that makes restaurant critics cringe when they hear one is coming to town. One has come to Orlando. First, it’s immense. Then there’s the issue of it being Italian, which in itself is not a cringe producer. But when you’re talking about an Americanized version of Italian food, and then factor in the mass production of a large restaurant, you can just start to picture the plates of spaghetti with sauce from an institutional sized can with meatballs that bear more than a couple of similarities to an eight ball. And it’s loud. And it plays Frank Sinatra virtually nonstop.
But it’s actually a lot of fun, and the food is decent.
So don’t let a critic’s jaded bias keep you away. Go with a group and order from the family style menu. Choose the pot roast for one of your choices, and have the tiramisu for dessert.

A 2018 addition to the Disney Springs lineup of restaurants. M&E is a massive space that is meant to resemble the terminal for the one-time seaplane business that served the Springs (the story is made up). The food is good and the Italian dishes are authentic.

An immediate contender for one of the best pizzas in town. A near perfect crust, thoughtful toppings, balanced seasoning. Makes a darned good meatball sub, too.

The LaCommare family is back in business, this time with son Leo at the stove, but mom and dad Marie and Stefano are always on hand.

A new chain owned by Cheesecake Factory, but don’t let that deter you. The food is good and the service is impressive.