Urban Flats bucks the “downtown downturn”

Written By Administrator On October 2, 2008

trend with Wine Down Wednesdays

OK, I’ve mentioned the horrible plight of downtown restaurants that are struggling to hold on in a scary economic climate. Walk into one of the Church Street Station venues on a weeknight and listen to the crickets. A tumbleweed or two might roll across the road.
So how do you explain the crazy-big crowd at Urban Flats on the corner of Church Street and Orange Avenue most Wednesdays?
Easy: Wine Down Wednesday.

“We own downtown on Wednesday nights,” manager Adam Williams told me. And this is why: for $20 you get all the “light bites” you can eat and all the wine you can drink. You wouldn’t be able to have a flatbread appetizer and a glass of decent wine in any restaurant for under 20 bucks. And, says Williams, he offers about 14 wines as part of the deal and “quite a bit of food.”
Is there a catch? The only one I can figure is that the deal is offered only to the first 100 people to show up and purchase a wrist band. And it starts at 5 p.m. each Wednesday, so if you don’t show up early you may get shut out.
Hmmm, I’m thinking if I worked downtown, I’d get there at 5 o’clock, buy a couple of wristbands, go home, change into something comfortable, pick up the significant other and go downtown for a really cheap dinner.
But kudos to Williams and the Urban Flats team for finding a way to attract crowds, especially in this economic climate. Anyone else have a bright idea?

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Bocuse d’Or gala — It just might have been worth $450

Written By Administrator On September 28, 2008

The culmination of the opening weekend festivities at Epcot’s International Food and Wine Festival was the grand gala dinner to announce the winner of the Bocuse d’Or American finals competition. In attendance was a veritable who’s who of the culinary world.

There were, of course, Paul Bocuse, the founder of the Bocuse d’Or, something like the Olympics of the culinary world, and Daniel Boulud, president of the Bocuse d’Or. Just a dinner featuring those two would have been notable enough — they are two of the most famous chefs in the world, after all.
But there were so many other culinary luminaries in attendance that it just might be that the meal was worth the $450 fee.
Here’s a rundown of the evening.

Actually, things didn’t start out so grand. The requested attire for the evening was semi-formal, so there we all were trudging through Epcot in our suits and ties to get to the World Showplace where the dinner would take place. The problem was that the Bocuse d’Or competition had taken place in the same venue just that afternoon. And when hundreds of us showed up for the 7 p.m. starting time, the big gates to the Showplace were slammed shut. So there we all waited in the late afternoon sun for the doors to open.

It turns out the reason for the delay was that crews were busy dismantling and hauling away the stadium bleachers that had held the several thousand spectators just three hours earlier. Given that herculean task, it was pretty amazing we were made to wait only 20 minutes.

Once we were inside, the food and drink never stopped. We were greeted with flutes of Veuve Cliquot Champagne, tumblers of mojitos and martini glasses filled with Manhattans made with rum, which were oddly delicious.

The appetizers for the reception were cooked and assembled by teams working in the four cubicle kitchens that had been assembled in the event space for the cooking competition. Among those making the tasty tidbits were David Myers of Sona in Los Angeles; Traci des jardin of jardiniere, San Francisco; George Perrier, Le Bec Fin, Philadelphia; Andre Soltner of the French Culinary Institute, new York; Laurent Tourondel, BLT Restaurants, New York; Alain Sailhac, French Culinary Institute; and for the home teams, Roland Muller of Food and Beverage Development, Walt Disney World Resorts; and Scott Hunnel, Victoria & Albert’s.

Hunnel’s roasted muscovey duck with fennel and blood oranges, smoked bacon and Minus 8 vinaigrette were wonderful, but I kept going back for more of Tourondel’s fois gras terrine with raisin and apple mostarda.

After a time, Paul Bocuse announced that dinner was served, or at least that’s what everyone assumed he said because he speaks only French.
We all made our way to our table assignments in the back of the Showplace. Each place setting had a tall white chef’s toque. Underneath was a tin of Petrossian caviar, but it was not what it appeared to Bocuse be on the surface. Well, yes, it was caviar on the surface, but the little black pearls was a peekytoe crab salad as assembled by Patrick O’Connell of the Inn at Little Washington. It was accompanied by a sauvignon bland from Edna Valley Vineyard (2006) in San Luis Obispo. The appetizer was genius in its simplicity, and at the end of the night I would say it was one of the best things served all evening.

But there was good competition.

Following the caviar appetizer was a fish course of steamed Pierless cod from Charlie Trotter of Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago. This was the only disappointing item all night. My cod had been steamed to a point of mush. But the Acacia Vineyard Chardonnay from Carneros (2006) helped lift the dish a bit.

Daniel Boulud’s “duo of Brandt beef” comprised the meat course. It featured four schnibbles of confection, a seared ribeye, glazed beets, root vegetable gratin, and red wine braised short ribs that positively melted before they hit the mouth. Beaulieu’s 2004 Tapestry meritage offered the appropriate roundness of tones to accompany the meats.Bocuse

The formal dinner ended with a plate of artisanal cheeses assembled by cheesemaster Max McCalman. And what goes better with cheese than a 2000 Dom Perignon brut?

Desserts were served festival style back in the reception area. They were mostly by some of Disney’s best pastry chefs, including the incredible Erich Herbitschek of Disney’s Grand Floridian Resort & Spa. My favorite, however, was the salted caramel from Ewald Notter of the Notter School of Pastry Arts.

It was nearly midnight when I made my way back to the parking lot, walking through the eerily quiet Wolrd Showcase.Bocuse

This was a grand dinner indeed, and it was an important event for Disney and Orlando. It showed the world — and people came from all over the world to attend — that Central Florida understands and appreciates fine cuisine.

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Party like it’s 1905

Written By Administrator On September 19, 2008

at Columbia in Celebration Sunday

Columbia Columbia, the oldest restaurant in Florida, is celebrating its anniversary Sunday by offering limited menu items at laughingly low prices. And you don’t have to go to Ybor City, the original location, to take advantage. The deal is good at the Celebration location Sunday, September 21, from noon to 7 p.m.
Some of the available menu items include: soups to be sipped for 50 cents; chicken and yellow rice is $2.95; boliche is $2.95; sangria is 95 cents; and flan is half a buck. A couple of rules: reservations will not be accepted (take something to read while you wait), and no takeout.

Columbia claims to be 103 years old but is actually a couple of years older (they always lie about their age). After many years of observing 1905 as the date the restaurant first opened in Tampa’s Ybor City, owner Richard Gonzmart discovered a reference to the restaurant in December of 1903. But with “since 1905” plastered all over the menus and business cards, the Gonzmart family just decided to keep that quiet. Too bad — 1903 prices would probably be cheaper than 1905!
Columbia likes to thnk of itself as a Spanish restaurant, but its menu has more ties to Cuba. And much of the menu takes liberties with tradition. My experiences with the restaurant have been spotty. But give me 95 cent sangrias and I can be very fogiving.
Columbia is at 649 Front St., Celebration. Click here for the official Web site. (No, not there, here.)

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Former Sam Snead’s will be home

Written By Administrator On September 18, 2008

to new 310 Park South restaurant, Lakeside edition

The former Sam Snead’s space in downtown Orlando is currently undergoing renovations and is expected to reopen next month as 310 Park South Lakeside. Technically the restaurant is located in a high-rise building across Central Boulevard from Lake Eola, but who wants to call their restaurant 310 Park South Across-From-The-Lake? And when you’re already using a name that indicates an address several miles away, what difference does proximity to the lake make?

I question the wisdom of using an address as a name when it isn’t the address of the location. Saks Fifth Avenue can get away with it; not so sure about 310 Park South. But what do I know?

A manager at 310 Park South in Winter Park told me that he expects renovations to be completed by the end of the month with an opening planned around Columbus Day. That seems ambitious. A peek through the windows shows a space that is all but gutted. A newly constructed bar is in place, but there’s little else there. But who knows, it could happen.
With the opening of this new location, the owners of 310 Park South have abandoned their plans to put a restaurant in Baldwin Park. The heel-dragging practices of Baldwin Park developers have dashed the plans of many a restaurateur.

When Sam Snead’s restaurant closed down — quite suddenly — last year, the owner of the franchise license had planned to reopen that space as another Sam Snead’s, but according to Pat Casey, that didn’t work out. Instead, he plans to open a Snead’s restaurant soon in Lake Mary on Highway 46 near Timacuan.

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Handhelds on hold at Seasons 52

Written By Administrator On September 18, 2008

When Seasons 52 opened on Sand Lake Road over five years ago, it was on the cutting edge of new technology. Waiters used hand-held devices to send orders directly, and electronically, from the table to the kitchen.

There were some glitches — servers would put the devices in their aprons without locking the keypad and would inadvertently send food orders to the kitchen. In those early days, it wasn’t unusual to see plates of food on the serving line sit there for long periods of time.That’s because they hadn’t been ordered.
So I wasn’t surprised when I visited that original Seasons 52 and saw a waiter using an old-fashioned pad and pen to take an order. But it turns out the Dardeneers haven’t given up on the technology completely. Seasons’ leader, George Miliotes, told me the restaurant was preparing to change to a different manufacturer for the devices. The old handhelds cost somewhere around $1400 — each! The new ones about a thousand less. So, until the switch-over, waiters without devices were left to, um, their own devices.

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Happy Holidays?

Written By Administrator On September 18, 2008

Park Plaza Gardens offers early booking incentive

You know things are tough when restaurants are worried about holiday bookings. I’m not Park Plaza saying that Park Plaza Gardens is scared, but it seems odd this early in the game to be offering incentives. But maybe they just want to be certain their holiday schedule is full.
Anyway, if you book your holiday party before October 15, and schedule it at PPG between November 15 and December 30, the Park Avenue fine diner will throw in a free champagne toast. It doesn’t say which champagne, and I’m only assuming the offer is for everyone in your party. But if you’re going to schedule a holiday party, a free champagne toast is better than a kick in the pants. Unless we’re talking Cooks, then it’s “I get no kick from champagne.”
And if your company usually has a holiday party but has decided to forego one this year, drop me a note — we’ll keep a running tally.

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Restaurateurs flip

Written By Administrator On September 11, 2008

for the Glass Flipper

Attendees at last weekend’s Florida Restaurant & Lodging Show at the Orange County Convention Center voted the Glass Flipper the best new product. I told Flipyou about this one in my post last week from the convention center. It’s not likely to change the life of the consumer much, but it’s going to be great for the poor guy who has to flip glasses over one-by-one after they come out of the dishwasher. This device flips the whole rack, making the glasses ready for ice and water.
First runner-up was a software program from Customer 2 You that makes it easier for restaurants to post their menus online and have customers order for pickup or delivery.
Second runner up was a company from Delray Beach called Joe Sixxpak. They  manufacture a plastic, collapsible six-pack bottle carrier. This allows a bar back to fetch bottles of beer without fear that the old-timey cardboard carrier’s bottom will give out. They can even put the whole carrier in ice and pull it out to return to a cooler. And the product is obviously good for the environment — it’s green.

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Friendless

Written By Administrator On September 11, 2008

Friends Restaurant to close after Saturday

The Flog has just learned that Friends restaurant on North Mills Avenue has been sold. The final day in its current form will be Saturday, September 13. More to come later on the new owners and their plans for the place.

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Marcella Hazan writes memoir

Written By Administrator On September 10, 2008

with her husband, Victor, and stirs memories of Venice

Marcella Hazan Kim Severson, one of my favorite food writers, has a profile of Marcella Hazan in today’s New York Times. The occasion is the forthcoming release of Hazan’s memoir, Amarcord: Marcella Remembers.
If you don’t know, Marcella Hazan is credited with single-handedly bringing Italian food to America. Calamari was virtually unknown in this country until she included it in her first cookbook.

The article brought to mind a profile I did on Marcella about 10 years ago, visiting her first at her home in Venice, where she was packing up the apartment on the top floor of an old villa overlooking the rooftops of the city, for a move to Longboat Key, Florida, where she resides today.

I was in Florence visiting a friend and arranged to meet with Marcella in Venice. I took the train up the day before and wound my way through the narrow passageways to the apartment building where I was greeted by Marcella and her husband, Victor.
We sat and chatted a while. I took notes and sipped the espresso they offered me (stunned that I preferred it without adding sugar). Then Victor took me off to the Venice market to buy supplies for a meal Marcella was planning. Even then, Marcella, who is 84 now, did not get around very easily, and Victor ran most of the errands. And when I say ran, I mean I had a hard time keeping up with this man who was easily 30 years older.
The fastest way to the market was by gondola, he said, but not one of those tourist trap boats that line the Grand Canal. This was a large boat that only went back and forth a canal from one bank to the other — a sort of ferry. Victor told me that real Venetians stood in the boat as it crossed — they did not sit down — so that’s what we did, like Washington crossing the Delaware.
The Venice market is an amazing place; no foodie should miss it, but you have to know where to look. There are a few food stalls set up around the Rialto Bridge for the tourists, but this is not the real market. Find your way beyond the bridge and you’ll come across the most dazzling array of produce, meats and seafood you can imagine.
The seafood is most impressive. You can stand in the middle of the fishmonger stalls and not smell one whiff of foul air, so fresh is the product. There were fish from all over Europe, but, counter-intuitively, the “imported” fish cost less than the locally caught seafood.
While walking through the produce, I asked Victor about an incident a few days earlier. In a Florence market I was fascinated by some immense mushrooms and reached out to touch one. The vendor went ballistic on me and started yelling and batting my hand away. “It’s absolutely forbidden by law” to touch produce, Victor explained. Mind you, the mushroom was covered with manure, but that apparently didn’t matter.
(Go into a supermarket in Italy and you’ll see rolls of plastic bags in the shape of crude gloves over the produce rows; these are for shoppers to pick up their selections.)
Victor was on a mission to buy pig snout for a special sausage Marcella had in mind, but the butchers were fresh out of snouts. We went back to the flat with some other meats and vegetables. I chatted a bit more with Marcella and started to thank them for all their time and say my good-byes — it was now late morning — and Marcella said, “But you’re coming to lunch with us.”
Then she said, “Julia is in town and wanted to have lunch today, but I told her we were having lunch with you.”
That would be Julia Child, who was in Venice, at a hotel on the Lido. And when Julia Child gets bumped in your favor, how can you refuse? (They made arrangements to have lunch with Child the next day; that’s what the pig snout was for, and, yes, they liked Julia Child very much.)
Victor and Marcella took me to one of their favorite restaurants, Fiaschettera Toscana. (Despite the name, the restaurant is Venetian, not Tuscan. Venice has exorbitant fees for changing signage, Victor told me, so when the current owner bought the restaurant, he kept the name so he wouldn’t have to pay for new signs.)
At the Hazans’ insistence, I had the house specialty. the fritto misto, fried assorted seafood, including, no doubt, some of the seafood I had seen in the market that morning, such as cuttlefish.
After much food and much conversation, Marcella had had enough. She ordered, in Italian, a shot of Jack Daniel’s (there it’s an import) and pushed her plate away. “Basta,” she said.
And if you saw my farewell column in the Sentinel where I used that word, that was where I got it — from Marcella Hazan, sitting in a small trattoria, in Venice, away from the crowds. Enough food, she was saying.
And more Jack Daniels.

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Team USA — led by Orlando chef

Written By Administrator On September 10, 2008

brings home gold medal (and we’re not talking about flour)

Team USA Team USA, led by pastry chef Laurent Branlard of the Walt Disney World Swan and Dolphin Resort, won first place in at the 2008 World Pastry Team Championship in Nashville. The two-day, 13-hour compeition was held August 31 and September 1 at the Gaylord Opryland Resort and Convention Center.
Branlard (left, with a pulled-sugar sculpture that, believe it or not, is entirely edible) was captain of the US team that also included Dimitri Fayard, co-owner of Vanille Patisserie of Chicago and Stephane Treand, executive pastry chef at the St. Regis Resort, Monarch Beach, California.
During the two-day competitions, teams must present showpieces (I guess that would be an example of a showpiece in the photo), frozen desserts, bonbons, plated desserts and entremets — small dessert dishes served between courses.We are very proud to represent America and to compete against all these nations — most of them are top food industry leader countries, like Belgium and Japan, so it made the competition very interesting,” Branlard said in a statement.
Central Floridians can taste Branlard’s pastry confections at Todd English’s bluezoo, Il Mulino Trattoria and Shula’s Steak House at the Swan and Dolphin Resorts.

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