An unassuming little spot along the road where you place your order at the counter then find a seat in the small dining area to wait – not a long time – for someone to bring your food to you. Threre’s a menu board on the wall behind the counter, but don’t overlook the hot food in the steam table at the other end of the room. And if you’re not sure what the food is called, it’s OK to point at whatever looks good. Map.

I stopped in recently and had the pernil, or roast pork shoulder. They referred to it on a hand-written specials menu board as pulled pork, but this wasn’t like what you’d find in your basic barbeque joint. The meat, which was moist and flavorful, was in large chunks and topped by a piece of delicious crispy skin. Woe to the person who takes this heavenly piece of epicurean epidermis and sets it aside. It’s OK to do that with chicken skin. But with pernil you have to eat the skin. And that’s that.