The first time I visited Papa Lozzi Italia, a little over two years ago, the restaurant scene was just starting to find its new footing. So was I. After an extended period of doing reviews mostly on takeout food, inside dining was beginning to be less fraught.
In those days, restaurants were putting plexiglass dividers between tables to help people feel more comfortable and separated. Papa Lozzi was the first one I saw that hadn’t just slap-dashed in place. Someone here took the time to notch them so that they looked like they were part of the original design.
I should have taken that as a clue that Papa Lozzi cares about details. I stopped in again recently when I found myself on that part of town and wanted a quick bite. My companion and I were rushed to make a movie showtime. I wish we had had more time to sit and savor because the food was even more enjoyable than what I remembered.
The complimentary bread tasted as though it had just come out of the oven, hot and doughy, accompanied by a dish of olive oil squirted with balsamic and a snowing of grated cheese.
I had the lasagna bolognese, which definitely did not come from a box stamped Stouffer’s. The pasta sheets were delicate, not chewy, and the meat sauce was layered between and surrounding the cheese-covered stack. Shreds of torn basil added color and flavor.
My guest had a special of the day of chicken piccata, lightly breaded and pan fried with a lemony sauce, and served with ribbons of fresh pappardelle, which I snuck onto my plate to enjoy with the extra bolognese.
Our server did a terrific job of helping us with our time constraints.
I don’t know why Papa Lozzi never comes to mind when I’m asked about good restaurants on the east side of town. To be honest, I’d forgotten that I’d been here before until after I was seated.
I won’t forget again. Papa Lozzi Italia serves excellent food in a pleasant atmosphere. It deserves your attention.
Papa Lozzi Italia is at 504 N. Alafaya Trail, Orlando (map). It is open for lunch and dinner daily. The phone number is 407-440-2099.
