Written By Scott Joseph On May 16, 2011

More certainly doesn’t look like the sort of place where you’d find traditional German fare. Instead of the typical rathskeller or beer garden atmosphere, this trendy restaurant in a bohemian neighborhood of Berlin is ultra modern with red the dominant color — walls, upholstery, lamp shades — and decorative touches like beaded curtains.

There are some nouvelle items on the menu — or whatever the German translation for nouvelle would be — but the best items are the ones that seem as thought they are from recipes passed down from the chef’s grandmother. And they very well may be.

I really wanted to try the Wiener schnitzel so I could compare it to the one I had enjoyed a few days earlier in Vienna, but I just couldn’t pass up the veal meatballs, and I’m glad I didn’t. They were big and, um, meaty, with a dense texture, and graced with a salty sauce made of capers. Parsley potatoes and a salad accompanied.

My companion had roast beef with sauteed potatoes served with a mild remoulade sauce. Both dishes were quite homey and filling (and because we visited in the dead of winter, we appreciated the warmth of the meal).

The staff couldn’t have been friendlier and more accommodating. When we first arrived, the only seat available was one near the front door, which didn’t appeal to us (see reference to winter above). Instead, we chose to sit at the food bar — an option that is often my first choice anyway — and we were thoroughly entertained by the bartender.

More is at Motzstrasse 28 (I always remembered it by calling it the mozzarella street; it worked), Berlin. Phone is 030-23635702. Here’s a link to More’s website.

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