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Knife & Spoon

Written By Scott Joseph On March 2, 2023

KnifeSpoon23 dining

As we await the announcement of this year’s Florida Michelin Guide winners – they could come at any time within the next couple of months – I took the opportunity to revisit one of Central Florida’s starred restaurants, Knife & Spoon, to do an inspection of my own. Based on my visit, I expect the Ritz-Carton headliner will hold on to its star or even gain an additional one.

There have been a couple of changes since last year. Tyler Kineman took over the position of chef de cuisine from opening cdc Gerald Sombright. Kineman, who previously was Knife & Spoon’s sous chef, serves as the permanently-on-site head of the kitchen when Dallas-based John Tesar isn’t in town.

Southeast LG 2 24

There are a few menu tweaks, too, but the forte remains the signature beef, which is sourced from 44 Farms, a Texas producer, and undergoes dry aging, some as long as 120 days. There’s a hefty per diem for that quality – a bone-in New York strip aged 30 days is $110 and $125 for the 60-day steak; 45- and 90-day ribeyes are $180 and $190 respectively.

KnifeSpoon23 steak

These steaks are, however, 32 ounces and meant to be shared. Which is what my companion and I did with the 90-day ribeye, savoring the crisply charred crust and the juicy-warm interior of this superb steak. The longer aging gives the meat an earthy note that you’ll either find appealing or off-putting. (If you prefer a a richer, more buttery flavor, you may want to go with one of the shorter-aged steaks.)

KnifeSpoon23 tuna

The steak was certainly a highlight of the meal but not the only one. We started with one of the new menu items, Tuna and Foie Gras, which featured sushi-grade raw tuna over a layer of mousse pate and a brioche crust.

KnifeSpoon23 scallops

Although its primarily thought of as a steakhouse, Knife & Spoon does not give short shrift to seafood – the Spoon in the name is a reference to a type of fishing lure. We had the Diver Scallops appetizer, with mushroom dashi, poured tableside, brown butter and a touch of truffle.

KnifeSpoon23 fish

We also were offered a taste of the mackerel that was offered as the fish of the day. Usually a whole fish, the fillet had a crispy skin and was served with a sauce that had been made using the head, tail and bones of the fish.

KnifeSpoon23 pasta

We were allowed to get a half order of the Uni Cacio e Pepe, which had strands of bucatini tossed with bottarga (dried mullet roe) and salty furikake.

KnifeSpoon23 mush

The best of the side dishes was the wild mushroom, firm and chewy, flavored with a miso made from the mushroom stems.

KnifeSpoon23 salad

We also had the salad made with ingredients from Frog Song Organics and featured a vinaigrette fashioned out of the lettuces, which are juiced and fermented. A unique way to reduce food waste.

KnifeSpoon23 ceiling

Of the times I’ve dined at Knife & Spoon I don’t think I’d ever seen it as full as on my recent visit, and it can be quite bustling. I’ve grown to like the odd decor, which features a grassy mound in the middle of the octagonal room under a domed ceiling that looks like the aftermath of an explosion from inside a volcano.

Michelin inspectors, supposedly, do not take into consideration the decor or the service (they’d have nothing to complain about there). They only focus on the food. Which is why Knife & Spoon’s future continues to look starry.

Knife & Spoon is at the Ritz-Carlton Orlando Grande Lakes, 4012 Central Florida Parkway (map). It is open for dinner daily. Reservations at OpenTable.

We hope you find our reviews and news articles useful and entertaining. It has always been our goal to assist you in making informed decisions when spending your dining dollars. If we’ve helped you in any way, please consider making a contribution to help us continue our journalism. Thank you.

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