There’s brisket at 2103 W. Fairbanks Ave. again.
That Winter Park address, you’ll recall, was the site of the first 4 Rivers Smokehouse, before it outgrew the space and moved and multiplied.
In January of 2013, B&B Junction, a burger concept, moved in, and while it had its share of loyal fans, they apparently weren’t enough to sustain it. B&B closed late last year. Now it’s the home of Hunger Street Tacos.
Speaking of loyal fans, something else has returned to the corner of Fairbanks and Formosa Avenues: parking problems and teed off neighbors. As was the case when 4 Rivers had lines out the door, Hunger Street Tacos, too, is causing taco fanatics to cruise the surrounding blocks in search of parking, much to the consternation of the neighbors. (Printed signs on telephone poles and the windows of the restaurant admonish customers to not park in the surrounding streets, but what else are they to do?)
Don’t expect the traffic to calm anytime soon. The high quality of HST’s food should keep the crowds coming.
The brisket I mentioned was a main ingredient in the Campechano taco, which was heaped along with chorizo on a double layer of soft corn tortillas. A bit of fresh cilantro and a spicy avocado and tomatillo salsa added some brightness in the flavor. There was an ample amount of meat, enough that if one preferred one could use the double layer of tortillas to make two tacos, which would ameliorate the $3.50 fee.
There was also a good showing of chicken in the Quesadilla I sampled, though I’m not sure enough to justify the $4.80 charge. But it was a good quesadilla, a toasted flour tortilla with a buttery note, folded with the shredded meat, chihuahua cheese and some more of that good salsa. It was served piping hot and made for a substantial sandwich for one.
Hunger Street operates as a quick-serve restaurant. Place and pay for your order at the counter inside. If you’re going to chow down there, take a table stand with your oder number and grab a seat at one of the picnic tables on the back patio.
If you’re getting takeout, as I did because I was afraid the neighbors were starting to circle my car, you can just have a seat outside the takeout window and someone will call your name.
If you’re driving down Fairbanks, you’re most likely to notice the distinctive artwork that now adorns the building, including this painting of a young Mexican girl. It is by Lapiztola, a street artist collective based in Oaxaca, Mexico, in collaboration with artist Liseth Amaya of Los Angeles and London.
Hunger Street Tacos is at 2103 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park. It’s open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. The phone number is 321-444-6270.