Quiet conversation

Fiorella’s

Address
City
Phone
Price

Westin Imagine
Orlando
407-233-2950
$$$

After a shaky start, this casual Italian situated in a newish hotel behind the Orange County Convention Center is finally finding its way, thanks in no small part to Robert Mason, who took over the kitchen. Mason, formerly of the Boheme, has given the menu something it didn’t have before: consistency.
The oven-roasted grouper was a thick fillet served on top of thick, round noodles. It had a delightful crisp crust and was topped with a stack of rich crab meat.Filetto con Gorgonzola, a certified black angus tenderloin of beef, was grilled to a perfect medium-rare and finished with tangy blue cheese, accompanied by baked tomato, cipollini onions, asparagus and fingerling potatoes.
The setting is OK, but you never get over the feeling that you’re sitting in a hotel, because you are. One irritating thing: there is no self parking, you must use the valet service, which is free (if you don’t count the tip).

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Grande Cafe

Address
City
Phone
Price

600 N. Lake Destiny Drive
Maitland
407-660-9000
$$$

It’s necessary for a hotel like the Sheraton Orlando North to offer a restaurant for its guests, and this property has had a number of restaurants over the year (most notable was an Irish pub that did a pretty good job). This latest effort is one that locals will want to try, too, especially for the special of prime rib, a 16-ounce tender slab of meat for $14.95, quite a bargain. Be sure to try the empanadas, too.

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H Cuisine

Address
City
Phone
Price

7512 Dr. Phillips Blvd.
Orlando
407-930-3020
$$$$

It truly is an elegant restaurant, a little bit of Manhattan chic on Restaurant Row. Especial attention has been paid to the lighting, which is moody and low. And banquettes, booths and chairs at freestanding tables are plush and comfortable.

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Hamilton’s Kitchen

Address
City
Phone
Price

300 E New England Ave
Winter Park
407-998-8090
$$$

Hamilton’s Kitchen has a new chef, Marc Kusche, and a freshened menu. It’s like the reset button has been pushed. And now the experience is more along the lines of what I was hoping for a year ago.

Kusche comes to the Alfond Inn by way of the Four Seasons Residence Club Aviara in Carlsbad, California. His menu makes good use of the bounty from local growers and has a nice mix of seafood and meat, though it seems that the former is the forte.

I can’t say that anything in particular has been done with the dining room since it opened last year, but it seemed to be different. It didn’t have that college dorm dining hall feel — maybe it was that it wasn’t as crowded this time, or maybe there have been enough subtle changes in lighting to make a difference. Whatever, it was more comfortable now, even with open kitchen. (It is called Hamilton’s Kitchen, after all.)

I was happy to make the return visit to HK and I’m even happier to now put it on my list of recommended restaurants.

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Hawkers Asian Street Fare

Address
City
Phone
Price

1103 N. Mills Ave.
Orlando
407-237-0606
$

The name Hawkers makes sense once you know the concept, and it only sounds odd if pronounced by someone with a Boston accent.
The idea behind this charming little eatery is to present an array of dishes the type of which might be sold — hawked — by individuals who stake out space on the sidewalks and streets of various Asian cities but with, you know, stricter health department guidelines.
I’m resisting the urge to describe the dishes as tapas-like, but most of the menu items are “small plate” in nature. And the best way to experience Hawkers Asian Street Fare is the same as you would a tapeo, except instead of doing a tapas crawl, you might virtually wander these Asian streets and sample a number of delectable items. Try the banh mi sliders (I had the duck version; delicious) and the five spice pork choplettes. The curry Laksa is a wonderful and colorful bowl of myriad flavors with chicken, shrimp and big fat egg noodles.

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Heidelberg

Address
City
Phone
Price

7 N. Orlando Ave.
Cocoa Beach
321-783-4559
$$

This longtime Cocoa Beacher has been serving good German food for decades. The dining room was recently spiffed up and a patio was added. Next door is Heidi’s Jazz Club, so you can make a night of it right here.

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Hemisphere

Address
City
Phone
Price

9300 Jeff Fuqua Blvd.
Orlando
407-825-1344
$$$

Nearly 30 years old, this restaurant on the top floor of the Hyatt Regency Orlando International Airport has had ups and downs. It’s currently on an up following a remodel and a refocus on the high quality food it started with.

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Highball & Harvest

Address
City
Phone
Price

4012 S. Central Florida Parkway
Orlando
407-393-4422
$$$

The Ritz-Carlton at Grande Lakes Orlando recently opened its newest restaurant, Highball & Harvest, which takes the place of the Vineyard Grill.
During a media preview dinner, I had the chance to sample several of Jeffers’ dishes, and I liked all of them quite a bit.

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Himas Indian Cuisine

Address
City
Phone
Price

5135 International Drive
Orlando
407-574-4254
$$

Punjabi is the regional focus. The foods are honestly spiced, and the staff is welcoming.

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Kaya

Address
City
Phone
Price

618 N. Thornton Ave.
Orlando

$

Lordfer Lalicon co-owns Kaya with Jamilyn Bailey. Both were formerly with Kadence, the omakase restaurant that last year became one of the area’s first winners of a Michelin Guide star. Kaya was named a Michelin recommended restaurant in 2023

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