Cafe Margaux, a French restaurant in Cocoa, is an odd little place with delicious food. It wants to be an elegant restaurant, but it isn’t, at least not one along the lines of a Victoria & Albert’s or a Venetian Room. Let’s just say its chic on a shoestring. But if the decor is a bit florid, the food is decidedly upscale, not really classic French, but with French tones that enhance a creative style. The best of the entrees was the melange of fresh fish, offered each evening as a sampler of the three fish specials. When I visited, the chef had prepared poached salmon, snapper with a potato crust and blackened dolphin. My guest liked the dolphin best because the blackening seasonings were perfectly balanced with the mild taste of the fish, giving just a bit of cayenne spiciness. I liked the crispiness of the shredded potato crust on the snapper. This is the sister restaurant to Ulysses’ Steakhouse, also wonderful.

Small eatery in a former house (built before central air conditioning, apparently). The cuisine isn’t trail-blazing, but good basic dishes may be had. Go on a cool day.

Lakeside dining from the Tavistock Restaurant Group. Most people head to the outdoor deck, but there’s a much better dining experience to be had at the food counter overlooking the cooks at the grill.

Despite the Four Seasons Resort location, this signature restaurant is not white-glove elegant, another indication that type of fine dining is fading. But the food here is excellent, and the surroundings are stylishly artistic. Out on the balcony you you watch fireworks every night.

Part of the Promenade at Sunset Walk entertainment and dining complex, Capone’s is a second location of a Ft. Myers restaurant. Pizza is definitely a must here, though the meatball appetizer is pretty good, too.

Cavo’s doesn’t pretend to be any more than it is, which is basically a bar with a food menu.

Another Lake Nona dining choice from Tavistock. Most items are “small plates” to encourage sharing. The lamb sliders are a standout. Note that service doesn’t begin until 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday.

It’s refreshing that Cocina 214 doesn’t claim to be authentic Mexican and try to hide its Tex-Mex roots. In fact, it’s right there in its name: the 214 is a reference to the area code of Dallas. (That’s not the city I think of when I think of Tex-Mex, but there you go.) I liked the huevos rancheros I had on a brunch visit, and the carnitas tacos were delicious on a dinner visit. I also like the big open atmosphere. It’s nice to have the Tex-Mex flavor on Park Avenue. (Or just off Park.)

Columbia is the oldest restaurant in Florida, but not this location. The original in Tampa’s Ybor City has been around since 1903 (although, until recently, it was thought it was established in 1905). The Celebration restaurant has had its high and low moments in the past 15 years; lately it has been doing better. The menu is not as authentically Spanish as they would like you to believe. It’s not even all that Cuban. But the creative stylings at least get the spicing right. Try the red snapper Alicante or the scallops Casimiro. Desserts are less satisfying.

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House has come into the area in a big way, with an emphasis on the big. The new restaurant on International Drive is huge.

Of course, the main event here is meat — big, expensive hunks of it, nicely broiled and juicy.