Norman’s, the upscale dining restaurant from one of Florida’s most celebrated chefs, Norman Van Aken, has opened in its new location at Dellagio Town Center in the Restaurant Row District after an absence of nearly four years. Its return immediately widens the field for anyone conducting a search for Best Restaurant of Central Florida.

An upscale seafood (Ocean) and steak (Prime) supper club (live music) in the vein of The Oceanaire Seafood Room. The main dining room features warm wood walls with huge five-foot portholes that look through to the lounge area. (The dining room has its own bar for more intimate imbibing, a nice touch.) Touches of blue neon and a soft glow from drumlike light fixtures offer romantic notes, and white tablecloths and candles with frosted shades add a touch of elegance.
A “surf n turf” appetizer had lovely sea scallops and boneless short ribs plopped together in a smallish bowl with way too mashed potatoes. Good scallops, good ribs, bad presentation.
Onion soup was distinguished by a near lack of broth under heavy cheese; she-crab soup had a slight astringency and was not nearly as rich as it should have been.
Service was professional and thorough, and once the kitchen makes the right improvements, Ocean Prime will be a good choice.

This second location of Maine restaurateur Melissa Kelly recently underwent a remodel. The decor is brighter and more modern, but the food remains focused on traditional Italian fare with local ingredients, some sourced from the garden next to the kitchen.

Shula’s is consistently one of the best steakhouses in Central Florida. The decor is high-toned and classy, with a wood-trimmed corporate boardroom mien. Large black and white photos of football action that adorn the walls are tasteful and appropriate. The only real bit of kitsch is the menu, which is printed on the side of an official NFL football (don’t even think of trying to walk out with it — you’ll be tackled so fast you won’t even see the hostess coming up behind you.)
The steaks here are first-rate and expertly cooked. It ain’t cheap, but quality this good is worth the price.

The full name is Spencer’s for Steaks & Chops, but that’s a bit limiting. Spencer’s is a terrific all-around restaurant. Be sure to try the crab cakes and fried poached egg appetizers. Steaks are first rate, but so is the double-cut lamb chop and king salmon (served under a glass dome filled with smoke). Although Spencer’s is located inside a hotel next to the Convention Center, this is a restaurant worthy of local attention. The decor is upscale casual, and a meal here is a relaxing evening.

The New York based franchise has opened a large, splashy and decidedly noisy outpost at Disney Springs. (Loud music is sort of a trademark.) Food is good, with seafood getting as much attention — and deserving it, too — as the steaks.

A favorite of locals for special occasions, the former Venetian Room has become Venetian Chop House and specializes in steaks. But while the menu has been tweaked a bit, this is still very much a fine dining restaurant. The dining room is every bit as elegant as before and the service just as professional.

Vito’s Chop House is a first-rate operation, a highend steakhouse with a touch of Tuscany. The atmosphere is masculine but comfortable, the service is practiced and sure, and the steaks are of the finest quality and an omigod size that will have you requesting a takeout container before they’re even placed in front of you.