Cafe Margaux, a French restaurant in Cocoa, is an odd little place with delicious food. It wants to be an elegant restaurant, but it isn’t, at least not one along the lines of a Victoria & Albert’s or a Venetian Room. Let’s just say its chic on a shoestring. But if the decor is a bit florid, the food is decidedly upscale, not really classic French, but with French tones that enhance a creative style. The best of the entrees was the melange of fresh fish, offered each evening as a sampler of the three fish specials. When I visited, the chef had prepared poached salmon, snapper with a potato crust and blackened dolphin. My guest liked the dolphin best because the blackening seasonings were perfectly balanced with the mild taste of the fish, giving just a bit of cayenne spiciness. I liked the crispiness of the shredded potato crust on the snapper. This is the sister restaurant to Ulysses’ Steakhouse, also wonderful.

Pompano, cobia or anything else that happens to be freshly caught is likely to show up on the menu here. The pompano was oven-roasted and presented on a bed of jasmine rice with black beans and pico de gallo and mango. It was daubed with a flower of avocado butter and accompanied by a poblano chili, which offered a not-too-spicy counter note to the sweetly mild firm-fleshed fish.
The cobia was poached in extra virgin olive oil, which raised the richness of the fish a few notches. It was served with toasted coconut rice and accompanied by a citrus vinaigrette.
It’s a casual, beachy kind of place that tends to be a bit loud.

This longtime Cocoa Beacher has been serving good German food for decades. The dining room was recently spiffed up and a patio was added. Next door is Heidi’s Jazz Club, so you can make a night of it right here.

River Rocks has a wonderful location, directly on the Indian River Lagoon, and it takes full advantage with a delightful deck overlooking the water. Unfortunately the food does not rise to meet the setting. It’s unimaginative, inexpertly prepared and overpriced. Better to come here to sip a glass of wine or have a cocktail at sunset and then go elsewhere for dinner.