This location, the third in a growing mini-chain, was the first to incorporate a sweets shop into the design. They do a particularly good job with ice cream, but barbecue, specifically brisket, is still the reason most people come here.

On my visits to Gateway to India I got the feeling that the owners were attempting to recreate a more authentic experience, one that might appeal immediately to natives of India while offering insight to those unfamiliar. While they may be subject to the limitations of available ingredients and the influence of another place, Americanization does not seem to be a factor.Instead of “dumbing down” the spices, the kitchen prepared the dishes the way they should be done, mild ones mild and spicy ones spicy, and the results were quite satisfying.Goat biryani was a good example of the attempts at authenticity. The rice dish was infused with multiple layers of flavors, including notes of cinnamon, clove and cardamom, but the dominant sensation was one of peppery heat, pronounced but not overwhelming, and not so forward that it deadened all the other flavors. The goat was as goat can be, a bit chewy, and the presence of bones is always a bit startling, but the taste was good.Gateway’s menu features specialties of Northern India but has dishes from throughout the country. One of my favorites was the lamb Hyderabadi, a buttery brown curry flavored with ginger and garlic. It was, however, almost identical to the lamb rogan josh.

Now in its 27th year, Korea House is not only the oldest Korean restaurant in the area it’s one of the oldest of any cuisine. When it was the only Korean game in town, KH modified its menu to offer some Chinese dishes for Americans unfamiliar with Korean food who might think there was no difference between the two Asian styles. But as more Korean restaurants started opening — and as the local dining public became more sophisticated — Korea House revamped its menu to be truer to its cuisine. Still doing what it does best, serving fine Korean favorites with kimchi on the side.

At the suggestion of my server (whose playfulness and good nature added to the enjoyment), I had the pot roast lunch, a full plate of tender, falling-apart tender meat with a plop of mashed potatoes holding a well of dark gravy and steamed green beans and carrots. More than enough to eat, and priced under $9. What’s not to like?

M&M also has a full roster of breakfast items, and the BLTs at the next table looked so good I almost ordered one to go.

Longtime Greeker, originally known as Mayerion Mykonos, reopened in a new location after an 18-month hiatus. Food is good, if not completely authentic, though many people have issues with service.

Serviceable Thai food in pleasant surroundings, though service can be brusque.