Grazie, the restaurant that replaced Bem Bom in the Audubon District, bills itself as a “Modern Italian Kitchen.” I don’t know what that means. The setting is pleasant and lacks any of the stereotypical trappings of an “old timey” Italian restaurant – no red and white-checkered tablecloths, no candle wax dripping down a Chianti bottle’s basket.
Instead, the white-topped tables are set with simple placemats. A white brick wall has a neon sign that reads: “Pasta, yes[;] You, maybe.” (Apparently, neon signage as decor is all the rage.) And a stylish bar that overlooks a rollup window that when open has a view of the outdoor, out front covered patio.
But all that would make it Grazie, a Modern Italian Dining Room. The menu seems to be more of the traditional lineup of Italian standards, which is fine with me.
On a recent lunch visit – during which my companion and I had the entire restaurant to ourselves – we started with an order of the polpette, the Italian meatballs. The twin orbs were about the size of golf balls, but much easier to chew. Still, they had a very nice denseness, even seasonings, and a dollop of creamy ricotta cheese on top the blended well with the tomatoey marinara.
My friend chose the cacio e pepe primi piato, which featured thick and hollow bucatini noodles tossed with the titular cheese and black pepper. Even though I could see black pepper dotting the noodles, there didn’t seem to be enough peppery flavor. And pasta less bold that bucatini might have been a better choice. Also, the serving was more along the lines of a side dish, which is not unusual for primi piatti; just be aware if you’re really hungry.
I went with the pollo parmigiana and was very happy with the the portion and the execution of the dish. There were two thick chicken breasts – organic, according to the menu, but there’s no pocket device for a critic to measure that, so I default to the veracity of the kitchen – tender, breaded and pan fried, topped with more of that delicious marinara, some melted mozzarella and a sprinkling of chopped basil. It came with a choice of a side dish and I selected the fettuccine Alfredo. I chose wisely. The pasta had a nice chew and the sauce had the distinctive buttery-cheesy notes that Alfredo certainly intended. I don’t think anything about this dish warranted modernization.
Our host and server – same person – was gracious and attentive, making sure to keep our glasses full.
The chef and owner of Grazie is Nazih Sebaali, who also opened Meza Mediterranean in Baldwin park and who operated Cafe Annie in downtown Orlando for 29 years. His pedigree is reliable and so is his food here, modern or traditional.
Grazie is at 3101 Corrine Drive, Orlando (map). It is open for lunch and dinner daily. The phone number is 321-203-4392.
