At first glance, it’s hard to tell whether Tori Tori wants to be a restaurant or a bar that serves food.

Its name, which, roughly translated, is Japanese for Poultry Poultry or Chicken Chicken, would suggest the former. Its mien, however, is more of a cocktail lounge, with a large bar that dominates the sizable space and a few booths that ring the perimeter of the room. Even for those who choose to sit at a table – or can find an empty seat at one – there is no table service; orders for food and drinks must be placed with a bartender; food runners deliver the orders.

And there seem to be more drink options on the small booklet-size menu than food, which is all small plates (and presented in small print for that matter). There’s even a section of the menu labeled Bar Food.

But none of this is “bar food.” Each dish is thoughtfully conceived and expertly executed.

There are some who say that bagels are a site specific food, that only New York bagel bakers can do the round dough justice.

As it happens, as I type this, I am in New York and have a bagel here with me now, a toasted sesame slathered with cream cheese that I got from a bodega on the corner of 2nd Avenue in the East Village.

Amd I mss say, thuhs smmthng abt eetubbg a bgel in Nw Yor.

Excuse me, what? Oh, I said, “And I must say, there’s something about eating a bagel in New York.” And yes, my mother did teach me not to type with my mouth full.