There isn’t anything remotely Mexican about the decor and design of Frontera Cocina, the new restaurant from Rick Bayless that has opened at Disney Springs. And that just may be the point.

Bayless, the Chicagoland chef who has won no fewer than six James Beard Awards, says his style of Mexican food has “bright flavors” and isn’t heavy because they don’t do much frying. His menu focuses on the Central and Southern regions of Mexico, staying far away from the influences of Tex-Mex or Ameri-Mex, or, heaven forbid, Flori-Mex.

I arrived in Mt. Dora a little early for an appointment recently — it’s difficult to gauge how long a drive it’s going to be and I lucked out with light traffic. So I decided to pop in to a restaurant that specializes in ceviche, sometimes, as in this case, spelled cebiche.

That’s Mr. Cebiche to you, pal.

And by the way, this isn’t a place you just pop into, not unless you already know where it is. I had the address, but as I drove down Donnelly Street in the sleepy downtown, I couldn’t spot it. It was only after I parked the car and walked to where the address should be that I discovered it’s inside a sort of arcade of businesses, on the second floor, in a charming little space that overlooks the street below.