I had lunch recently with a local legend, Chris Miliotes.
Most Central Floridians when they hear the name Miliotes think immediately of George. He, of course, is one of the area’s – and the world’s – few master sommeliers, and the owner of Wine Bar George at Disney Springs. He also opened the Season’s 52 restaurant concept for Darden, which wooed him away from Walt Disney World, where he was the opening general manager of California Grill in its early (read: good) days.
But it’s not an overstatement to say that there wouldn’t be a George Miliotes without Chris Miliotes, for more reasons than one. There’s the obvious – Chris is George’s father.
But for many years, the elder Miliotes owned a popular restaurant called Chris’s House of Beef. And that’s where a teenaged George learned not only about how to be a good restaurateur, but it is also where he honed his wine tasting chops. (Yes, he was only 16 when he started his journey to become an elite sommelier, but he swore to me years ago that he didn’t swallow.)
Chris’s House of Beef was a big place, with 600 seats, and occupied a large building on John Young Parkway just north of Colonial Drive. The structure is still there, now home to Majestic Event Space. It has also held other restaurants over the years, but none as popular as the House of Beef.
Miliotes closed the restaurant in 1993. The reason will sound familiar to to many restaurateurs today: Extensive road construction in the front of the business made access difficult.
Miliotes also owned the Wunderbar Old World Delikatessens at Orlando Fashion Square and Altamonte Mall, both now defunct (I used to go there because it was the only place in town to find Schaller & Weber liverwurst), and in the mid nineties was general manager for Larry’s Cedar River Seafood on South Orange Blossom Trail.
Now at 96, Miliotes has been out of the business for many years and seems to be enjoying his retirement. We met at 310 Park South and had a fun time reminiscing about the old days, the restaurants, and the success of his kids.
It had been many years since I’d been back to 310 Park South. I recently reread my original review from 1999 and was surprised that there was very little about the place that I found likable.
There was more to like about my more recent visit. I enjoyed my blackened mahi sandwich, only slightly spiced with Cajun seasoning and served on fresh Cuban bread smeared with mayonnaise tinged with Old Bay, accompanied by totted sweet potatoes.
My companion enjoyed his Smoked Salmon Crisp, with house-smoked salmon on crostini with a chive and anchovy remoulade.
The room was stark. Weatherworn tabletops were bare, looking as though the place wasn’t fully open. (The sparse decor got a mention in my original review, too.) Service was fine, but the company was finer.
310 Park South is at 310 S. Park Ave., Winter Park (map). It is open for lunch and dinner daily. The phone number is 407-647-7277.
