There are likely hundreds of Korean restaurants throughout the state of Florida; I count more than 50 in the Orlando area alone. But it wasn’t all that long ago that there was only one – not just in Central Florida but in the whole state. That was Korea House.
It first opened in Longwood in 1982, and I know that it was still the sole Seoul-food purveyor when I started reviewing restaurants in 1988 and it remained the only one for several more years. (There was another restaurant serving Korean dishes called Go Hyang Gip on West Oak Ridge Road in Orlando but it featured a pan-Asian menu.)
Who can say what led to the wider diversification of the area’s culinary scene? The nineteen-nineties saw the popularity of the Food Network, which introduced viewers to new experiences. The local dining public became more sophisticated and more willing to step outside their steak-and-potatoes comfort zone. So we started to see more restaurants representing the cuisines of the world, including more Korean restaurants.
But they all had to match the standards of Korea House, which is still serving fine Korean standards today – and in two locations, including Longwood. (The original location was a few blocks away, at 977 W. State Road 434, from where it currently sits.)
Korea House was the seventh restaurant I reviewed for the Orlando Sentinel’s Florida magazine, and with the exception of Restaurant Akershus, Victoria & Albert’s and Hollywood Brown Derby – all Walt Disney World restaurants – the only I critiqued in the first 12 months on the job that is still in business. So I felt the need to return for another visit.
One of the reasons Korea House has lasted so long, I’m certain, has to do with the way I was greeted when I arrived for my recent lunch. Well, I was first met with a locked door – I had a noon lunch appointment with a colleague and arrived a few minutes early, not knowing the restaurant didn’t open until 12 o’clock. But my brief panic of tugging on the door was alleviated when I heard the lock click open, and a young woman with a broad smile welcomed me. And once inside, someone else called out a hello and welcome from the other side of the room.
But along with the gracious service, Korea House’s good food is another reason for its longevity.
My companion and I started with an appetizer of Kimchi-Jeon, a cross between a pancake and an omelet fashioned out of spicy kimchi bound with eggs, cut like a Midwest pizza.
For my main course I had the Japchae Box, which featured stir fried clear noodles with vegetables, including carrots and scallions, seasoned with soy. The box also included a fresh green salad, a couple of pieces of vegetable tempura, pickles, and a generous bowl of rice with just enough gumminess to grab with chopsticks.
My lunch guest had a similar presentation but with bulgogi, the traditional Korean barbecue of grilled ribeye.
Korea House has been in its current location for more than 20 years. It’s a large open space with various types of seating, including conventional booths and tables with cook tops.
With more than 42 years in business, Korea House easily qualifies as an Orlando Classic. With its continued focus on good food and service, it should be around a good time longer.
Korea House is at 1155 W. State Road 434, Longwood (map). See website for other location details. It is open for lunch and dinner Wednesday through Monday. The phone number is 407-767-5918.
