Minutes from First Scott Joseph’s Supper Club

Written By Scott Joseph On October 10, 2011


Charter members of Scott Joseph’s Supper Club dined with the lights of Orlando 18 floors below.

The first meeting of Scott Joseph’s Supper Club was called to order at 7:02 p.m. Thursday, Oct. 6, 2011, by the self-appointed president of the club: me.

Prior to taking their seats for the five-course dinner with wine pairings from Wattle Creek Winery, guests sipped sparkling wine, nibbled on hors d’oeuvres and took in the view from our temporary clubhouse, the Citrus Club on the 18th floor of a downtown Orlando highrise. As the sun was setting, we could spot landmarks such as the Orlando International Airport and the resort hotels at Walt Disney World.

Citrus Club executive chef Scott Haegele started us off with cream of Zellwood corn and truffle soup, which also had some bits of bacon buried in the creamy broth. It was paired with Wattle Creek’s 2007 chardonnay from Yorkville. Winery rep Doug Howell was on hand to tell us about the wines and the winery. Most interesting note was that Wattle Creek is the winery formerly known as Pat Paulsen Vineyard. For those of you under 40, Paulsen was a comedian, best known for appearing on the Smothers Brothers’ weekly variety program and for his quadrennial presidential campaign. He took up winemaking, quite seriously, but sold the winery in 1988. He died in 1997. Wattle, by the way, is the Australian name for the Acacia tree.


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What Does Kosher Mean?

Written By Scott Joseph On October 6, 2011

This article originally appeared in the Orlando Sentinel in 2006. The restaurant in the story has since closed.

The word kosher, Hebrew for fit or proper, has become such a part of the world’s word-stock that even non-Jews use it as vernacular language. “That isn’t kosher” is practically interchangeable with “That isn’t according to Hoyle.”

But just as most people would be at a loss to tell you who Hoyle was, so too are they unfamiliar with all aspects of koshering.

Although it reaches beyond the realm of the culinary, kosher is most often used to define food. The rules for koshering food are based on biblical laws dictated in the commandments Moses brought down from Mt. Sinai and found in the biblical books of Leviticus and Numbers. The laws are precise and thorough – there are 18 conditions that an animal must meet, from the manner in which it is slaughtered to the health of its lungs that could disqualify it from being deemed fit to eat.

But it isn’t just the foodstuff that must be kosher, the kitchen and the utensils used in the preparation must be as well.
That’s where Rabbi Sholom Dubov comes in. Dubov is the director of kosher supervision for Florida Kosher Services and the only orthodox Jewish rabbi koshering restaurants and food processing plants in Central Florida. His business card lists his various affiliations, but it may as well read “Have blowtorch, will kosher.” and among the tools he uses to kosher a kitchen is a pretty mean looking blowtorch.

Despite popular notions, the koshering of a kitchen doesn’t constitute bestowing a blessing on it, it’s a much more hands-on procedure. It involves removing what Dubov refers to as “flavors,” a term he admits has some controversy attached to it.

Any item — from a spatula to a worktable to a pizza oven — that has been used in the preparation of nonkosher foods must have that “flavor” removed, says Dubov. “Some modern-day technical people say there’s no actual flavor absorbed because you can’t actually take any flavor out,” he says.

So to remove the “flavor,” Dubov uses one of three methods depending on how the equipment was used. Foods that are made with water – soups for example – must be koshered with water. Foods that are made with fire – barbecue, anything baked in an oven – have to be koshered with fire. That’s where the blowtorch comes in. The third method is for cold foods, which includes anything at ambient temperature – sandwiches and such. In that case the koshering is accomplished with a rinse in cold water.

On this day Dubov is koshering the kitchen of Ole Gourmet, an Israeli vegetarian café in Casselberry. In a pot of boiling water on Ole’s stove, which he had koshered on a previous visit, Dubov immerses a soup ladle for just a moment. It goes in nonkosher and comes out kosher.

On the walk in front of the restaurant, owner Gideon Rubina places the tiles from the pizza oven so Dubov can turn his blowtorch on them. Rubina explains that they tried to kosher the tiles while they were still in the oven, but the high temperature – it must reach 950 degrees to be koshered – ruined the oven’s thermostat.

With the tile flat on the pavement Dubov fires up the torch, which is connected to a propane tank, and slowy covers every inch with the flame. He places a conventional oven thermometer on the tile to ensure it gets hot enough.

If you’re thinking, “I’m pretty handy with a blowtorch; I bet I could kosher my own kitchen,” you should know that only a rabbi can do the task. A serious kosher inspector, says Dubov, has to know not only rabbinical law but also have a thorough understanding of how food is prepared.

Most of Dubov’s clients are food processors that want to sell their products with a kosher certification. In Central Florida that includes a number of citrus processors. “I’m known as the citrus rabbi,” he says. The process isn’t all dunking and torching, a lot of paperwork is involved, he says, and there is much oversight. Every component, every ingredient has to be verified as kosher. If one of the components comes from a source Dubov isn’t familiar with, he will try to contact the rabbi who did the original certification or someone who knows the rabbi’s work.

Sometimes he has to go farther afield, literally, as he did when a client in Deland wanted to add a “flavor” from Colombia. Dubov couldn’t get proper verification, so he told the company to send him to South America so he could visit the plant himself. Despite protests from his Florida client and the Colombian plant management, Dubov insisted, and when he arrived in Colombia he found the kosher procedures were too lax.

So what happens if something nonkosher is eaten? “It’s like any sin,” says Dubov. “We believe the God forgives us.”

The food doesn’t have to come into direct contact with unapproved food to render it unacceptable. Dubov uses a can of Goya brand beans from a shelf in Ole’s kitchen to explain. All the ingredients – the beans, the salt, even the preservative – were kosher and were placed, uncooked, in the can and sealed. The cans then go through a machine called a retort, “a huge water system where these cans go through a certain temperature for a certain amount of time and they come out ready to eat,” Dubov explains. But say a batch of pork and beans, which could never be kosher because pork is unacceptable in any form, had been prepared in the retort before the otherwise kosher beans. Even though they had not actually had contact with the water, the beans would be rendered inedible.

Niggling, you say? Dubov would ask you if it would be OK with you if someone were to put a drop of arsenic in the water while the cans go through the retort. Even if the cans are completely sealed, no leaks, no pinholes. Dubov says that when he presents such a situation to someone who questions the concept of koshering, the reply is always the same. “They say no,” he says. “Well, why not?” he asks. “That’s your answer.

“It’s either kosher or it’s not.”


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Park Avenue: Central Florida’s First Restaurant Row

Written By Scott Joseph On August 12, 2011

Drawing tonight — Friday, Aug. 12 — for a $50 gift card to Park Plaza Gardens. Winner, as always, selected from list of newsletter recipients. If you’re already signed up, you’re already entered to win. If not, click this link.

wmfe_logo_blueOn this week’s WMFE dining segment, I speak with 90.7’s Judith Smelser about the up and down history of Winter Park’s Park Avenue, which is currently on one of the up cycles. You can listen in Friday at 5:44 p.m. or Saturday morning at 9:35. If you don’t want to wait — or if you missed it — you can listen here. Below are some details of Park Avenue and some of the things we talked about.

A couple of decades ago, the closest thing Central Florida had to a Restaurant Row was Park Avenue in Winter Park. And even then, it was only dotted with restaurants. They were some of the area’s best, but twenty years ago we are talking in relative terms for the most part.

Then, as the area started to grow and restaurants started popping up in other parts of town, including Winter Park Village, the restaurants on Park Avenue started to disappear. Some that stayed were diminished by flagging quality. For a while, Park Avenue was not a place one thought of for a good dinner. But the Avenue is back and arguably better than it has ever been. Now, folks strolling the boulevard have myriad choices depending on their whim — from French to Thai to Italian to vegan to Tex-Mex to creative American — and the majority of places I can heartily recommend. Come take a walk along Park Avenue with me.


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Today on WMFE: Group Buying and Daily Deal Sites

Written By Scott Joseph On July 29, 2011

wmfe_logo_blueOn this week’s WMFE segment I speak with 90.7’s Judith Smelser about the daily deal craze.

To say that there is a proliferation of daily deal sites would be an understatement. What started with Groupon and LivingSocial has exploded exponentially There now are dozens of sites dedicated to selling you discounts to all sorts of services and products. Why, even a restaurant critic I know of offers half-price deals to Central Florida restaurants. In the case of the daily dealers, it’s a mad dash to procure an agreement with any business they possibly can.


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Sushi in Central Florida is Certainly on a Roll

Written By Scott Joseph On July 22, 2011

Sushi_Pop_rollsI don’t know if it’s just coincidence, but there seems to be a proliferation of sushi restaurants lately. Just within a couple of weeks, I visited the newly relocated Rangetsu, Oviedo’s Sushi Pop, Kyoto and Rikka Thai and Sushi in Lake Mary. (Don’t bother looking up the latter; it has closed already.) And there are several new ones on my list of places to check out. There’s even a sushi food truck in the works, which will either delight or horrify you. (I suppose it could do both.)

Add to that the tried and true sushi bars, such as Nagoya and Ichiban, which always offer reliably good product (and by the way, when you find a reliable sushi restaurant, one you really like, you should stick with it). And more recent newcomers, such as Dragonfly, Izziban, Wazzabi, and Bonsai Sushi, not to mention the wave of lobby sushi bars that have opened in many of the local hotels, including Rosen Shingle Creek, Rosen Centre, Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress and Royal Pacific. Click here to go to the SJO sushi listings.

Sushi is the topic of today’s dining segment on 90.7 WMFE. (Listen at 5:45 Friday afternoon or hear the replay Saturday morning at 9:35. You can also listen online.)

Here are some other thoughts about sushi and what to look for in a sushi bar.


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Notes from Chicago

Written By Scott Joseph On June 8, 2011

For those who are interested in what’s going on in Chicago restaurants these days, I’ve posted some information about Girl & the Goat, the Publican and the Aviary, Grant Achatz’s latest project.

Even if you’re not planning a trip to Chicago, you might want to take a look at the Aviary, which is part cocktail lounge, part science experiment. I’ve even got a very short (and, unfortunately, very dark) video of two of the cocktails. Someone is bound to bring this concept to Orlando. Soon, I hope.


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Top 10 Ways to Tell if Your Kid Has Been Served Alcohol at Applebee’s or Olive Garden

Written By Scott Joseph On April 14, 2011

Both family chain restaurants Applebee’s and Olive Garden were in the news recently for accidentally serving alcohol to children. Both restaurants have apologized and promise it will never happen again, but parents are right to be cautious. Here then are the Top 10 ways parents can tell if their children have mistakenly been over served:

10. Asks the waitress what the 2-4-1 specials are.
9. Glass of “apple juice” has an umbrella and maraschino cherry.
8. Remarks that the grape juice has “a lovely bouquet.”
7. Orders fruit juice “shaken, not stirred.”
6. Sippy cup has a salt rim.
5. Complains to the server that the juice “tastes flat.”
4. Stares sullenly at his cup and mutters, “My teacher doesn’t understand me.”
3. Hands sippy cup to server and says, “Put a head on this, will you?”
2. Offers to buy a round of apple juice for everybody in the restaurant.
And the number one way to tell if your kid has been served alcohol at Applebee’s or Olive Garden
1. The kid says says, “You know, this food doesn’t taste half bad.”


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K Restaurant Plans Two Weekend Events

Written By Scott Joseph On March 22, 2011

K restaurant in College Park has two fun events this weekend. The first is another in the estimable restaurant’s Friday Night Flights series, where manager and resident wine expert, Dan Francoforte, selects six wines for attendees to sample. In the past, the FNF series have been held on the front porch of the old house that now houses the restaurant, but this Friday, March 25, the wines will be sipped in the all-new K Courtyard and Garden (glad they didn’t call it the Kourtyard). Chef/owner Kevin Fonzo has promised to prepare some light bites to toss out the back door to those in attendance. Cost is a ridiculously low $15, which includes tax but not gratuity. Dan counsels that guests should dress appropriately for the garden. The event is from 6 to 8 p.m., but you should plan on being there before 7 o’clock so you’ll have enough time to sample all the wines.

Then on Sunday, March 27, Fonzo is kicking off his Kevin’s Day Off series with a farm-to-table dinner prepared by guest chef Scott Maurer of Peabody Orlando. The evening will start with a cocktail reception in the garden at 5:30 then move inside for the four-course dinner. Cost is $50, not including tax or gratuity.

Reservations for both events are strongly advised because seating is limited. Call 407-872-2332.

K restaurant is at 1710 Edgewater Drive, Orlando.


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St. Patrick’s Day

Written By Scott Joseph On March 17, 2011

Today is St. Patrick’s Day, when it is said that everyone is Irish and when certainly every bar is an Irish pub. But some make the claim all year round. The pubs, I mean. Well, some people, too. And for those of you who want to celebrate in an authentic establishment that has not only the drinks but also some food there are more choices than ever.

Of course, how close those other pubs come to authenticity is arguable. Even in Ireland you’re more likely to find yourself inside a knockoff pub owned by a large corporation than in an independently owned, old-time tavern.
But let’s not quibble about origins. When you go looking for a good Irish pub you want to have an ample selection of beers, lagers and ales. Guinness is a must. You don’t actually have to drink it, but it should be available.


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Some Restaurant Recommendations for Chinese New Year

Written By Scott Joseph On February 3, 2011

Today is the Chinese New Year and the beginning of the Year of the Rabbit. And the big question is: Which late-night comedian will be the first to declare in his monologue tonight, “I’m still writing the Year of the Tiger on all my checks”? I’ve got 50 bucks on Letterman.


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